Madrigal: Candelaria

Once we got settled in at Paula's cousin's house, we followed the sound of live music to the home where most of the town was gathered. As with all festivals in Colca Canyon, Candelaria in Madrigal is steeped in local music and dance, and that's what started the festivities Thursday evening.

The wititi, pictured above, is a traditional dance representing the courtship of a young woman by a young man from a rival community (think West Side Story), danced to music played on drums and brass by local musicians. According to tradition, a young man would disguise himself in women's clothing with the tasseled hat shown above and take advantage of local festivals to dance unsuspected with his love and eventually woo her.  

(For the record, our own Ñaña Frida is a fantastic wititi dancer and could take on anyone in this crowd.)

Dancing continued long after the rain began, and we could still hear the band playing late into the night as people paraded from house to house around the town.

The next morning, the band played on and the townspeople, dressed in their typical clothing, danced behind them as they progressed around the town square. 

The patrons of this year's party:

The fusion of Spanish Catholic traditions with local customs is present throughout Peruvian culture, and this celebration is no exception.  Named for the Virgin Mary of Candelaria whose origins can be traced back to the Canary Islands, this festival seamlessly mixes the centuries-old local dances, dress, and music of Colca with the veneration of Mary through Masses and elaborate altars like the one Domi, Victoria and Frida pose in front in the photo below.

Just looking at this photo you can see how nationalism and a globalized economy (i.e., stuffed animals holding hearts with English messages hanging among the silver platters) are also added into this complex blend of influences to create new and constantly evolving customs.